by: Steve Fontaine
Valley Golf
Saginaw, MI
copyright 2003 All rights reserved
The following materials contain the methods, illustrations and instruction that makes this such a powerful and reliable road map to permanent expert level improvement.
Golf training should not be approached in the same way as cramming for an exam.
If you train 8 hours a day for 7 days, you've devoted over 3000 minutes to training.
Your likely to have better results by devoting 5 minutes a day for 3 months
and having only a few hundred minutes involved. When given a chance, most physical
things will grow into you over time. Your body, mind and muscles will change
in ways that will make them better suited for the tasks that are given to them.
This process works on its own time table.
A training program that works must first be a training program that you will
do. Practice and training should be treated separately. Practice requires balls,
while most training does not. The simple rule is: “Train a little everyday.
Practice when ever you want to.”
Its human nature for people to be gung-ho and want to do more than what's realistic.
They turn training into a burden and then outright quit. Usually in a matter
of weeks. Sometimes after the first day. It doesn't have to be hard or time
consuming. I strongly recommend resisting any gung-ho urges you may have and
limit your training to 5 minutes a day. After 3 weeks or so, you should have
a better idea whether you're in it for the long haul. You can adjust your training
minutes up and down based on free time
and ambition. Keep in mind that 5 minutes will produce good results. By the
way, the 5 minutes a day is for swing training. Chipping and putting are separate
issues.
Working on your swing, your chipping or putting are much the same. Only the
core skills are different. Chipping has one of the simplest training formats.
The first chipping skill I ask for is the ability to chip the ball ten yards
in the air. I require a smooth, one-speed stroke. Set-up with a middle ball
position and find a club that produces a ball flight that peaks around waist
high on a ten yard carry. Experiment with the length of your stroke. We want
it just long enough that we can reach our distance with a smooth stroke. Start
with a 2-foot long target at 10 yards from where you'll be chipping. Chip balls
at the target until you get the distance down. Take a small break and start
again. While its great to see how many times in a row we can hit the target,
our true goal is to be able to hit it the first time. You only get one chance
on the golf course. How you do immediately after a break will give you a truer
sense of your progress.
Each new day, you will see your ability to chip at or near 10 yards improve.
The improvement will be very noticeable. It does not take very many sessions
before you can hit your target 7 or 8 times out of ten. This is the first step
to becoming a great chipper. The second skill to develop is a good sense of
half and double. Using your ten yard stroke as a reference, double it. Do not
change your effort level, just lengthen the stroke until you can see and feel
the speed of the club head double. Test it and adjust it until you have a pretty
good sense of what double is. Starting again, from the 10-yard stroke, cut it
in half. Shorten your stroke until you see and feel the club head traveling
at half the speed. Over time this sense of half and double becomes very well
refined. The more accurate your ten yard stroke, the more accurate a sense of
double and half that you will be able to achieve. Now its time to put this training
into practice. Call off random distances, 12 yards for example. You know 10
yards, your sense of double will allow you to easily figure out what stroke
will produce 12 yards. This is easy. There are only two things you need to know
to accurately cover a full range of distances.
Working on carry distance is a very reliable way to train. Ten yards in the
air is always 10 yards. How far it goes after it lands will depend on grass
type, length, uphill, downhill, soft, hard, wet or dry to name a few. The knowledge
you get from playing experience will help you pick the proper landing area for
each shot.
We can expand our chipping skills to include a large variety of shots with little
effort. We can take the same stroke and try it with different clubs, ball positions
and face angles. These shots do not have to be practiced often to be done well.
At this point, its more in the knowledge of what will happen, than the actual
practice. Your knowledge, along with the 2 main chipping skills, will allow
you to perform all of these shots on the first attempt. When your 10-yard shot
is well tuned, your entire chipping game becomes more well tuned. Chipping this
way takes little maintenance. You don't have to play a lot of golf to stay sharp.
To apply this to your swing training, think of the turn as your 10-yard chip.
The better your turn, the better your entire swing will be able to become. Putting
can also take the same approach.
The final skill for putting is the 12 basic breaks. The difficult part to achieving this skill is in finding a place to develop it. If you can find a green that's flat with about a 4 degree slope, place a tee in the center of the flat area. Place tees around this tee at locations corresponding to the numbers on a clock, each tee approximately 15 feet from the center tee. Place a ball between the 6 O'clock tee and the center tee and putt straight uphill to the center tee. Then move to the 5 or 7 and continue to putt your way around the clock. At each number, putt until you have learned the break for that putt. After a few sessions, these breaks will become memory. In real play, you can determine which number on the clock your closest too. Then look to see if the slope and speed are more or less than the green you practiced on. Adjust your line accordingly. This way, you are always working from something you know for sure. There is no rule in golf that says you have to guess.
Impact drills were once a very popular building block for developing a good
swing. Impact drills have stood the test of time. The old school training technique
should not be left out of any training program. In general, an impact drill
is a short stroke, in which, the main objective is to produce firm, crisp, square
strikes on the ball. If done regularly, good ball striking becomes more and
more instinctive. When you take a longer stroke, the body tends to make automatic
adjustments that put you in proper position to strike the ball. In theory, you
can take your club back to just about anywhere and potentially hit good shots
on a consistent basis.
Impact training is most effective when balls are available. The impact drill
itself does not require balls, however, it's purpose is for improving ball striking
abilities. Having balls to strike between your impact drills will give you the
feedback you need to get the most from what impact drills have to offer.
To do impact drills, you need to have something firm to use as an impact bag.
Something that will stop the club without the potential to cause injury. A rolled
up piece of remnant carpet (preferably foam backed) will work in place of a
real impact bag. The back edge of the impact bag takes the place of the golf
ball. With a short stroke, strike the bag. If your wrists buckle or you feel
a little out of balance, you did not get in a good striking position. The right
hip, right shoulder and hands should feel like they are a team, all striking
the bag at the same time. You don't want to see how hard you can hit the bag.
Only strike it hard enough for you to feel that you achieved a good striking
position. Alternate between impact drills and striking balls with the same stroke.
It only takes minor adjustments to change your ball flight. To keep your drills
a matched set, the backstroke of the impact drill should feel like a smaller
version of the turning drill.
The best of modern techniques thrive on a good turn. I often say, “The
better your technique, the less perfectly you have to perform to hit good shots.”
Make the turning drill the dominant force in building your swing.
The best turn in golf is nearly identical to the turn used in an overhand throwing
motion. A small difference in posture and a fuller shoulder turn make up the
golf version. The right shoulder clears the way for weight to be loaded into
the right leg. The left shoulder should effortlessly be drawn back to take its
place. Pay attention to the things that make a throwing motion feel natural
and try to integrate them into your golf turn.
The turning motion
starts clockwise, as it would in a normal back swing. The right shoulder should
lead, but it will be hard to feel because we do not lift or bend the right arm
while doing this drill. Turn the shoulders until both shoulders are even with
the right hip. Stop here and compare your mirrored image to that of the diagrams.
This part of the drill is shoulders only. Don't encourage the hips to turn . They
will turn slightly on their own. The arms should not go up and down at all. The
hands should keep the shaft pointing to the center of your body throughout the
motion. Figures 1A and 1B represent this position. They are the same position
shown from two different mirror angles. It helps to imagine a level table top
surrounding you. Imagine the shaft resting flat on the table top. When you turn
the shaft slides level along the surface of the table as it follows your shoulders.
If done correctly your spine angle should never change. From this position you
are ready to start the forward turn.Learning the back swing as a two piece motion and then blending it into a single move is easy. Set-up to do a turning drill. Make the clockwise turn away from the ball. From this position, lift your arms up, the same as you would when doing the set position drill. This will put you in a pretty good back swing position. From here, lower your arms back down to the original position and turn back to the center position . Repeat this motion a few times for several sessions. Eventually, you can start with your club in a normal address position. If you are relaxed, your club will seem to flow effortlessly, up onto to your shoulder as you turn. The back swing should start out nearly all turn with very little lift and gradually shift to nearly all lift with very little turn. You will be able to feel this, when you make a good back swing.
We're on the home stretch. If you have a good turn and a good arc, its all
path, set-up and minor adjustments from here on out. Path is the part of the
golf swing that never seems to want to cooperate. One way to approach path is
to try to control or guide it with the arms. The other way is to control it
with hand angle and position pressure. Most people have little or no knowledge
on how the hands can control the path. By default, they elect to control it
with the arms. Almost everybody that swings a good arc uses some form of position
pressure, whether its consciously or not.
Position pressure is simple to understand. Grasp a golf club in the fingers of the right hand (not in the palm). Extend your right arm out, as if, you were going to shake the hand of some one in front of you. Rotate the right hand until the palm is facing up. The weight of the club will be applying a clockwise pressure to your hand. The pressure you use to oppose it is position pressure. You want to keep position pressure on the club at all times, even at address. In order to do this, we must replace the pressure caused by the weight of the club with pressure from the left hand. This will allow us to preload the position pressure and activate the muscles we will be using throughout the swing. This is not a squeezing pressure. The only squeezing pressure we need in our grip is a slight squeeze with the last three fingers of the left hand. When you have a feel for how position pressure works, use it while doing all of your drills.
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